Week VIII - Day 3

Hair Did, Nails Did

It had been over six weeks since the Ugandan women in Kampala did my hair and I knew if I didn't do something with the carpet growing beneath my Sister-locks, Theo Jennings would have a fit. Also, I needed to get rid of the half-dozen or so knots they’d put in my head before they became permanent. So, I followed up on a tip given by Uncle Arkangelou's daughter Apuk, "Go to Panorama. They know how to do hair very well there: you will not be disappointed." 

The half-mile walk from the Royal Hotel to Panorama Hotel was along the same route where I’d fallen and I was hoping that the mud had dried up before I left. It had not rained in two days and I could not risk another fall; not just for health reasons but because Michael threatened to send me home if I fell again and part of me believed him. I took my time getting there and walked like an Afri-Can woman – slow and graceful with an accentuated roll in my hips and less slapping of feet.

I arrived at Panorama intact and without the dew of perspiration on my brow. I was so proud of myself! Inside, I inquired about the possibility of someone tightening my hair. A very friendly lady named Jane let me know that she definitely had someone who could assist me and asked if I wanted to make an appointment. I asked her how much it would cost before making any arrangements and she quoted the price of 2000SSP (South Sudanese Pound) approximately $11.

I remembered the last time I was quoted a price back in Kampala and how I thought the price would surely change once they got started because it was going to take a long time to tighten each lock. In Kampala, I was quoted somewhere around $10 for the appointment and was not surprised when in fact it changed to $20 after having finished 3 and half hours later. Most importantly, I cared about the person’s ability to actually do my hair better than the two women back in Kampala…I didn’t want any more knots.

Jane scheduled the appointment for 8:30am the following day. I also made sure to chat with Alan before leaving. I wanted him to do my pedicure because I’d watched him doing Achuil’s feet and remembered how thorough he’d been. When I asked him the cost of a pedicure, he let me know that it would be 600SSP or, $3.50. I was so happy that I’d gone to Panorama because it turned out to be very inexpensive.

They next day, I took the journey back and arrived at Panorama at 9am. I was totally shocked to see Maureen sitting and waiting for me. She had actually showed up at 8:30am and patiently awaiting my arrival. I felt so bad for assuming that the hair shop would be on AT (African Time). I offered my apologies and she got started right away.

Maureen began with washing my hair…something I’ve not been doing too often since leaving the states. Sorry Theo. Y’all know that I’m nasty and don’t have time for all the primping and fussing over my hair and my looks. Besides, the shampoo here is so expensive and they don’t have a product that I can trust.

The washing blessed my soul. Maureen scrubbed away all the dirt and dust and did not judge me for being so nasty. Afterwards, she sat me down in the chair and I took out the tool I’d purchased in Texas. She quickly let me know that she had her own and had been keeping herself updated by watching YouTube clips. I was impressed!

Maureen sectioned my hair and began working. She moved with confidence and speed. And I was put at ease when I saw that she knew how to use the compass directions – north, south, east, and west in the process of tightening: a concept I had to share with the ladies back in Kampala a number of times before they actually understood. Maureen was good.

As she worked, we began to chat. She wanted to know if I was really an American and what it was like there. She let me know that she was honored to be doing a Black American’s hair and that it was her first time actually meeting one face-to-face. She has no idea how much she blessed me.

We continued our conversation and I let her know that there are some in the US who believe that Africans don’t particularly care for them and she was utterly shocked.

“Why?! Are you serious?” her face contorted as if she’d smelled a foul odor.

I let her know that I was not sure who began the rumor nor why it continued to be believed and I also shared the fact that there are many African Americans (or as they calls us Black Americans) who are proud of their African ancestry and are eager to visit The Continent. She was happy to hear that.

At some point, we stopped talking and I began reading Moses Isegawa’s book Abyssinian Chronicles; trying to pick where I’d left off. I let Maureen do her work and watched as four to five different women came up, touched my hair, and exclaimed, “Wow! So tiny…so beautiful.” I was feeling good.

Meanwhile, Alan had gotten to work on my feet. He ran some hot water, made me put my feet in the tub, and walked away. I wondered if he was going to change his price after seeing my dry and dirty feet.

When Alan returned, he removed the old nail polish and began scrubbing my feet with precision. I had the residue of henna on the bottom of my feet and this guy took it upon himself to remove every bit of black/brown left on the white of my feet. He tackled the crusty cuticles, demolished the colossal callus on my big toe, and made my feet new again. Then he painted my toenails with the most royal color…purple; all for three dollars and fifty cents. Imagine!

By 1pm, Maureen had finished my hair. It felt as if my scalp had been zipped up: tight as bra two sizes too small! I was grateful that she took the time to remove every knot left by the previous duo and took the time to oil my scalp and spritz me with some olive oil sheen. End the end, the cost came to 3500SSP or $20. 

When I complained that Jane had quoted the price of 2000SSP the day before, the receptionist changed the price to 3000SSP. I then asked how much would Maureen receive from the transaction. When the receptionist said 50%, I was enraged. I paid the 3000SSP for the hairdo and then pulled Maureen aside and gave her an extra 500SSP. I let her know that next time I will call her and she will take the $20 for herself. She happily agreed and we exchanged numbers.

Theo…you don’t need to worry about me and my hair. Maureen will be taking care of me as long as I’m in Juba, South Sudan. Look at her work!