Making it to Juba, South Sudan: 2-310717

Entebbe Vacation

Our third week in Uganda started with the VBI (see Week II – Day 7 update for an explanation). We stayed at the lovely Lake Heights Resort where there was rooftop dining, filming of a weekly sitcom on the premises, and the most beautiful plants and flowers I’ve ever seen. So, of course, we decided to take a walk down to the beach to see Lake Victoria up close.

The morning was perfect. The weather was warm and balmy with a slight breeze that carried the sent of fresh flowers and burnt trash. As we walked, there was the constant toot-toot of taxi horns wanting us to ride with them instead of walk the dusty road. We ignored them and continued to force Entebbe to be our personal “walkable city” and got in 1.5 miles down to the beach. Along the way, we took pictures of every plant and flower that interested us and made plans for the flora and fauna we would have around our yard when we truly settled either in South Sudan or Uganda.

Once at the beach, we were able to soak in the morning peacefulness as we were lulled into a blissful silence by the crashing of the waves. We sat and I couldn’t help but think about the Pacific Ocean and all the fun times we’ve shared with the kids in Halfmoon Bay and Santa Cruz over the years. And similar to the Pacific, her namesake reminds all that Lake Victoria is definitely a majestic site to behold so, the VBI was worth every minute that morning.

Back to Kampala

Now that we had to wait for the South Sudan Embassy to open in Kampala (it was closed on Monday), we planned for our Uber driver to come pick us up early Tuesday. Being Smart Saree, I put the assignment in the night before so all we had to do was get up, get picked up, and get to Kampala in time for the opening of the embassy.

So of course, when 7:30am rolled around and there was no driver, I told Michael not to worry, “The Uber app showed between 7:30 and 7:45am”. Then 7:50am came and went and I checked the Uber app and the scheduled time that I had put in the night before showed 7:30pm! Ugh!! I quickly changed the time and a driver was there to pick us withing 5 minutes. Just as we started our journey back to Kampala, it began to rain and the driver’s window began to fog up so much so that I couldn’t see out of it from the back seat. I immediately went into what my mom calls “teacher mode”.

Seeing that the driver was not using the air in the car properly, I gave Michael instructions from the back seat on which buttons to push.

1. Push the button to allow air flow not air circulation

2. Push the button to defrost the front windshield

3. Push the button to turn the AC off

As the window cleared up, the driver just laughed and laughed. He began to point out all the vehicles on the road that were pulled over because they could not see out of their windows. “These guys just buy cars and don’t know how to work them.” Feeling safe, we all relaxed and drove up the road listening to DJ Khalid, Nikki Minaje, and Lil Wayne.

When we reached the South Sudan Embassy, it only took a few minutes to fill out the proper papers for the visa but, the woman at the counter told us that it would not be ready for pick up until Thursday. Clearly we didn’t have until Thursday to spend time and money at Lake Heights Resort. So, we succumbed to making a phone call to a friend who made a phone call to the office and learned that our visas would be ready by 3pm. Oh the challenges of refraining from supporting the institution of corruption! To be clear, we did not pay anyone off for faster service, we just called someone who had “pull” and that is where the corruption begins.

Anyway, we now had a 5 hour wait so we decided to take care of business. We went to Ethiopian Airlines to get a new ticket. We took our driver out to lunch at the best shwarma place in Kampala, Mehza. And we went back to Ndere Cultural Center for a thorough tour of the grounds. After blowing 2 and half hours, we went back to the embassy and upon seeing my face, the woman at the window said, “I thought I told you to wait until 3pm?” to which I replied, “I have nowhere to wait but here is that a problem?” 10 minutes later, our passports were ready with the visas and we were on our way back to Entebbe!

2nd Farewell

Our driver Christopher was so good that we asked him to come pick us up for our flight and he agreed. He was on time and yet again, we were at the center of corruption. We didn’t have to get out of the vehicle (all passengers are supposed to before the car can enter airport grounds), he drove us up the ramp that we walked luggage up just days before, and was also able to enter and continue to help us. We were of mixed feelings: grateful, amazed, and ashamed. Y’all can figure out why because I’m too lazy to go into detail.

We went through the process of taking all the laptops out again but did not have any other issues. Our bags were overweight but we only had to pay $160 and we were able to bring the laptops on-board with us and have them stowed with the flight attendants. The service was great and I was feeling good but, as the plane took off, I began to think about Malou, Shammai, and Machol and the tears began to flow.

I wondered when I would see them again as I allowed a bit of fear and anxiety settle into my spirit. I thought of all the negative things that people have said about Juba, South Sudan and wondered if we were making the right decision to go. So, I began to pray and give thanks for all the blessings that we had received that day and went to sleep.

Oh Lord Juba

The flight from Entebbe, Uganda to Juba, South Sudan was a short hour and twenty minutes. However, upon arrival, it was as if we’d traveled back in time by 100 years! Walking down from the plane and across the tarmac was expected but, what was not were the following:

Broken wooden planks for the floor under the tent that immigration check-in and luggage pick up took place
Hordes of young men wanting to help out with collecting luggage and not speaking English
Customs check under the same tent but no one really going through the bags, just a chalked “OK” scribble on the outside

I’m not complaining. Some of you want to know what it’s been like on this journey so I’m doing my best to describe it. JIA (Juba International Airport) was literally and figuratively a HOT MESS!!

I almost fell through the floor twice, got ready to punch a young-man for grabbing my bag, and was completely overwhelmed by the level of chaos. I began missing Uganda immediately! Thankfully, there is a terminal that is being built and should be up and running in a year or so; inshallah (God willing).

Michael’s nephew was there to help us out the entire time. Aganj, made sure that our immigration paperwork was cleared, our bags were picked up (by the one young-man that I almost punched), and that our ride to the hotel was waiting. We were finally South Sudan and with family.

Silence During Visiting

After being fed and getting a good night’s sleep, the visiting commenced. For those of you who don’t know, Michael has not been in South Sudan for 10 years and he’s been living in the US for 30 so, a homecoming is something that his family believes is long overdue. And just like any good family, once they know you’re in town, they begin to stop by and visit.

The first visitors were Michael’s nephew Aganj and his wife Achut. There was much catching up that needed to take place like; how’s everyone in the village, how do you find Juba, how are the kids, why didn’t you bring the kids..etc. I completely understood the need to catch up for 3 hours so, I sat silently not needing to have anything translated. Besides, Aganj put forth a good effort and tried to accommodate me and my monolingual deficiency thus keeping me in the loop when the conversation went beyond my ability to comprehend.

The next set of visitors weren’t as helpful. Michael’s niece and her friend stopped by and both of them spoke so low that I couldn’t even hear so, I couldn’t keep up with the conversation. Oh, the language that they speak is Dinka and sometimes they switch up and speak Arabic too. It can get to be a bit confusing. Again, this was about a 2-hour long affair in which I sat with great patience and even greater silence. It was almost unbearable so, I began to chat with my mom via WhatsApp to share my experience. Her messages back to me were full of encouragement and wisdom. As I contemplated what she shared with me, I continued to sit and be seen and not heard…just like a good child in the old days.

“It’s going to get better. Take the quiet time to reflect and appreciate.While hosting, be prayerful.”

By the time the next visitor arrived, I was feeling completely left out. And then came the phrase that I’ve dreaded hearing, “You should speak the language by now.” And of course the tears began to flow just at the thought of the number of years I’ve asked to be taught and have desired to learn. Thankfully, this visitor was another niece so it wasn’t too bad to get so emotional. And the tears that fell came from a well of tears that I thought had dried up.

When one is married for as long as we’ve been married (21 years this December), there are plenty of areas of resentment that you try to get through or over but, just one simple phrase reveals that some things you just don’t get over or through – you just put them aside and are forced to wade through when the issue comes up; hoping not to get snagged and caught up in all the old feelings of the past. In short, the tears were a combination of me feeling left out, me understanding some of the conversations and not being able to talk back, and to be honest, simply not being the center of attention. And so I continued to sit in silence and try to get over feeling childish. Oh and to be clear, I know I’m not supposed to start so many sentences with “and” but, I’m telling the story the way I talk so for all you English majors; GET OVER IT!

By way of a small miracle (received a chain message via FB from someone I don’t even talk to), I learned the following:

Be silent when you are feeling critical
Be silent if your words will be a poor reflection of your family and friends
Be silent if you have already said it more than once
Be silent when you are supposed to be working instead
Whoever guards the mouth and tongue keeps the soul from troubles

The time of silence was for me to be quiet and support my husband with prayer and warmth towards his family. It was not time for Saree to be the center of attention. I’m sure that my brother Tony would be super proud of me for being, “a good African wife” because the American in me was ready to get up and walk away at the time! Overall, it was great to see and meet everyone and it was truly a blessing to know that just like me, Michael has a host of people who love and care for him (AND ME TOO).

Juba Registration

Soooo…Michael Mading is finally a dual citizen and it only took two days! Here’s what happened…

We got up early Friday morning and went down to what we’d call the immigration office. Imagine a compound with about six to eight small buildings inside. People standing around everywhere under trees to hide from the scorching sun rays. No signs posted anywhere describing where or how to get started. No forms out for people to take and begin filling out on their own. In all, it was a completely “well run” chaotic place.

Micheal’s cousin and nephew were there for support; both figuratively as well as literally. Had they not been there, my poor husband would not have known where to start and because I don’t even speak the language, I would not have been able to find out in order to help him. So it was good that the two of them were there.

The two of them, Ajing and Aganj, started by going from one building to another to find out where to get things started. We were finally whisked into the Captain’s office, commenced with formal introductions, and served tea. While I sat silently, the men received the instructions necessary for completing the process. I was left in the office whilst they got started and sat silently. J

After about 10 minutes away, they came back to get me and had forms in hand. I immediately began to fill out the forms and right in the middle of doing so, some young guy comes up behind me and starts giving me directions on what to write! In my mind, I’m like, “Excuse me?! Who the #*%@! are you?!” I mean this guy is saying things like, “You write the city there….write the date here…place his name there”. And the best one of all, “I’m helping you.” So naturally, I turned around, extended my hand and said, “Hello, my name is Saree. Who are you?”

“I’m Daniel.”

“Well Daniel, please greet me properly before you try and help me. I know how to read and complete forms.”

“Oh! I’m here to help you.”

“Well, no one told me that and I don’t think I need help feeling out these forms. I know how to do it.”

So I continued to complete the forms and placed an X in the boxes that asked “Male? Female?” and then had Michael sign. That’s when Daniel chimed in, “They will send these papers back! You are supposed to sign. Why did you make X and not tick?”

I was like “WTF” this guy is really getting on my nerves! It’s hot as hell, there’s no method to the madness, and he’s “helping” me. So finally, I looked at Michael, Ajing, and Aganj and said, “He’s getting on my nerves and no one told me that he was here to “help” us.” There response? “Oh sorry Mon-Malou! He’s here to make sure that we get things completed properly and turned in so as not to be denied.” Oh…I see…have me fill out the papers, keep me outta the loop, and expect me to be fine with this guy barking orders. HELL NAW!!

So, I left the papers and walked away. Lucky for them, they were already completed! Next was to go get pricked in the finger to find out blood type (he’s O+), get medical clearance laminated, get fingerprinted, and pay for the entire process. All this was to happen right in the middle of lunch time! So you know what I did? I found my way back to the Captain’s office and worked on my Week II updates because I’d learned to get my work done in times of silence. I was able to get a lot done that day.

By the end of our time there, we’d finished the paperwork and the process for Michael to become a dual citizen – US and SS! I learned that in order for me to gain citizenship, I had to remain in the country for 5 consecutive years and by the way I was feeling that day, I didn’t even plan on being there for the next 5 days – shoot!! We left, however, feeling quite accomplished and that’s all that mattered.

Blessed by the Bishop

Back in 2004, I had the opportunity to visit South Sudan and meet Bishop Taban. During the two week stay, I was able to visit the local school he was supporting, and get to know the peace-work he was involved in. So, it was super important for me to get some time with him while on this current visit.

Upon our arrival to the Bishop’s compound, we couldn’t help but notice the three palm trees full of weaver birds. Their bright yellow plumage and cheerful chirping made the place come alive with peace. The Bishop, who is now over 80 years of age, welcomed us, sat us down, offered us drink, and began to share his wisdom. He spoke of love and how God made the spaces between our fingers in order to lock hands in support and respect for one another. He shared how we should eat less and chew more, talk less and listen more (I think I got this one down now), and complain less but be more thankful. It was amazing to hear such simple things come from such a loving and peaceful man. Y'all know I cried right?

Michael and I discussed our visit later that evening and he was totally impressed by the Bishop's graciousness. He also reminded me that the Bishop encouraged me to chase my dream and not let it out of my sight. It was a blessing to have shared the experience with Michael because there are some things that I just could not retain and he has been able to remind me since we sat with the Bishop.

#Blessed #Grateful #Loved

Writing and Reflecting

Due to the spotty behavior of the internet, I had been putting off completing some of the updates. Then I realized, "I have a computer and can pre-write what I want to share so when the internet is up, I can simply post like crazy." Now I've committed to putting time aside every Sunday morning and afternoon to get caught up and share with you. It's amazing what one can accomplish when well planned in advance!

In conjunction with keeping you all updated, I've also reached out to make "friend" via Twitter here in Juba. And guess what?! I'll be going to church next Sunday!!

Here, there is a Juba Christian Center (JCC) choir that has some cool praise and worship videos on SSBC (South Sudan Broadcasting Company) and they have inspired me to go check out the church. Can you believe it?!

Anyway, this third week has been what my Auntie Nette calls a process. Nothing happened when I wanted it to, everything seemed to get on my nerves, and I survived and am still smiling! Eventually, that's all that matters.

Cheers y'all!!

ps - I have no idea the names of the plants so feel free to share if you do.